valttu - 8:28, 26.8.2015 »
How about...
http://www.vastavalo.fi/albums/userpics/10119/normal_rollattoriliukas.jpg
That's your brain on fixed gear. Shitting your pants trying to keep balance.
http://greenplanetstream.org/ARELOAD321/wp-content/uploads/550x350_klunkerz.jpg
This is your brain on a freewheel.
Not this goddamn bullshit again.
Would like to see you cornering in those conditions. No doubt freewheel is faster but thats not what i was talking about.
Tompsukka - 10:07, 26.8.2015 »
Would like to see you cornering in those conditions. No doubt freewheel is faster but thats not what i was talking about.
Im allways driving like a granny anyway...
Well you can try to follow me, but since you're riding a fixed gear like a fucking granny I doubt that you're anywhere near when the fun starts.
Tompsukka - 10:07, 26.8.2015 »
Would like to see you cornering in those conditions. No doubt freewheel is faster but thats not what i was talking about.
Im allways driving like a granny anyway...
Well you can try to follow me, but since you're riding a fixed gear like a fucking granny I doubt that you're anywhere near when the fun starts.
I rode two winters in Helsinki, one on mtb and next on my “all year round fg bike”. Mtb is useful only in a deep snow imo or to fool around. Fixed gear brakeless is alright if you know what you are doing. It a lot depends of your route. I had ~25km daily commute and my road was almost always well taken care of, 2-3 stops and pretty flat, that makes the difference.
Since first snowy day - 35mm tires with spikes and it felt really safe and good to ride. I have leader 722TS with steamroller forks. I think fixed gear is good because spring time you just change chain and you will be good to go.
If I would be buying steel frame for multipurpose it would be steamroller, you will use it winter time and later summer time, it does it all.
It was like that back then
Now I live in Tampere and wide riser works for me
Hachio - 0:10, 26.8.2015 »
front brake for slowing down.
manuelkala - 23:55, 25.8.2015 »
for maximum finnish winter cycling bliss
get:
-26" fixed gear w/ front brake
Front brake on ice? I'd steer away from that.
Set the cockpit so that you can put more weight over the front wheel when riding through slush, and move the weight over to the rear when surface gets more slippery.
Lower tire pressure for more traction when needed and learn to take corners steering, not leaning. You’re going to fall a couple of times anyway, so just take it easy.
Narrow tires with spikes, rolls faster and stops faster, and has better traction sideways.
There’s a reason why rallycars have wide wheels when the tractions is good, and narrow when it’ s not.
There are no real winters anymore so no need to worry about rolling in the snow. I have nokia w106 which is a trekking tire.
Don’t use the front break when you ride.
When the time comes that you need to stop for that truck running red lights,
you will panic break on the front and fall, which is a good thing cause sliding on your side stops you faster.
Gears or not, better have everything enclosed, derailleurs will just clog up. I would not ride fixed on the ice but I’m a pussy.
Now I’m even more confused about what to do. It would have been much easier if nearly everyone had the same advice but nobody seems to agree on what is best.
A freewheel may or may not freeze
Fixed is good and it isn’t
Big tyres or small tyres are fine
I need studded tyres or I don’t
Full fenders are great and terrible
Looks like I may just need to suck it and see, switch some stuff around and find out for myself what works for me.
thefootdown - 14:35, 26.8.2015 »
Now I'm even more confused about what to do. It would have been much easier if nearly everyone had the same advice but nobody seems to agree on what is best.
A freewheel may or may not freeze
Fixed is good and it isn't
Big tyres or small tyres are fine
I need studded tyres or I don't
Full fenders are great and terrible
Looks like I may just need to suck it and see, switch some stuff around and find out for myself what works for me.
Well, we are looking at Finnish winter here. Mileage will vary.
A freewheel may or may not freeze
They freeze if you neglect service.
Fixed is good and it isn’t
Rear brake always works, freewheel never freezes. Takes less maintenance. Riding in the winter is tiring, though. Also, you’ll need straps or winter SPD shoes (or thick socks). Getting your feet into straps can be infuriating when the pedal’s grease hardens in the cold.
Big tyres or small tyres are fine
Knobby tires can have more friction, unless there is ice - then only studs work. In light snow narrow tires work well as they cut through the snow. Problem for narrow tires is when snow starts packing on bicycle path (because of bad winter maintenance).
I need studded tyres or I don’t
Having a studded front tire is great. Player would have a second front wheel with a lighter tire for more pleasurable weather.
Full fenders are great and terrible
Snow packs in them but when the weather is wet nothing else will save your back and feet from getting wet and cold.
Winter is never just a winter - every day is different and no advice is perfect. Riding in winter is slower, tougher, hotter, colder and generally just more uncomfortable so you’ll wan’t to have the best bike possible.
I’d recommend a MTBish or Cyclocrossish bike. Recycled 26" MTB is a good budget option. You can find them at Kyläsaari Recycling Centre (aka U6).
Your toes, fingers, face, balls etc. will probably freeze way before your freewheel, I wouldn’t worry too much about it.
Studs can make riding a lot of fun or not. If you’ve never ridden them then maybe they’re worth a try. Extra front wheel with studded tyre is probably a good idea. Last winter there wasn’t much use for studs but you’ll never now. I’d say bigger is better when it comes to tyres.
Full fenders are ok but so is beaver tail, most of the time.
Hub dynamo with proper lights. See and be seen!
Full fenders with extra long flaps keeps you dry and the drivetrain clean.
Tires that keep that nasty gravel on the outside (Vittoria Randonneur, Schwalbe Marathon Supreme, Maxxis Overdrive etc) .
Studded tires when needed. (Schwalbe Marathon Winter, Schwalbe Ice Spiker etc.)
Disc brakes.
And don’t just think about the bike. Clothing that works for you is as important as the bike.
Start with good gloves, warm shoes, something on your neck and a hat that fits under the helmet.
thefootdown - 14:35, 26.8.2015 »
Now I'm even more confused about what to do. It would have been much easier if nearly everyone had the same advice but nobody seems to agree on what is best.
I agree with others that conditions vary, especially since each winter is somehow different.
It’s not something to be afraid of - You get the hang of riding in different conditions quite fast, just be careful and pay attention to what you’re doing and you’ll figure out what works for you.
My suggestion is to simply ride whatever you got and fix problems when needed. I suppose if these ideas, preferences and suggestions had to be somehow summed up, these are the things you want to look for in a winter bike:
enough tire clearance for schwalbe marathon winter (because then just about any knobs will fit too)
somewhat easy mudguard installation
fixed/single speed option
Or don’t know
ritari_s - 15:36, 26.8.2015 »
And don't just think about the bike. Clothing that works for you is as important as the bike.
Start with good gloves, warm shoes, something on your neck and a hat that fits under the helmet.
thefootdown - 14:35, 26.8.2015 »
Full fenders are great and terrible
Looks like I may just need to suck it and see, switch some stuff around and find out for myself what works for me.
There's this basic thing, that you will be running on various kinds of snow, various kinds of ice and plain tarmac, so no wonder if anyone has different opinions which is the best compromise as a tyre.
Full fenders are great but then there’s slush and there’s this other kind of fresh, fuzzy snow (no idea what they are called in English) but the end-game is that if you a planning to run the full fenders through all winter you need shitloads of clearance, several millimeters more than when you run fenders on summer and there’s just water going there.
The whole mechanics of a side pull rim brake come into play here: if you need to have a 35mm tyre with knobs and studs, some extra clearance and a fender all under the brake – i’m not sure if such long brake calipers and such frame even exists and if they would give any braking power.
If you don’t have a rim brake in the rear, just put the fender over the bridge and ride like boss even though it looks ridiculous.
